Lots of great advice on and off list. thank you all. Some of the thoughts
that came my way have resulted in a little redesign. I like the the inlay
stringing and with the "doh" moment I now think this might be a good
stretching of skills, and with some sharp tools and careful cutting I
should be able to get gap free contact. A little walnut saw dust to fill
any small gaps - this should be nice. thanks Ed.

Near every on and off list comment frowned upon sanding...so I'm convinced.
While walking on the imaginary slip and slide and reading emails John
suggested a low angle smoother with a 50 degree blade - whoops just
slipped. Because as a bottom feeder, that's a tool I don't have...but Lie
Nielson does. I may trade him some green stuff for his No. 164. Hey I'm
saving SWMBO some money right! Woo hoo looks like I'll be getting my first
Lie Nielson soon.

Assuming I do this inlay, I may go with a bolder statement a la Richard.
Again my original reasoning was minimizing the potential for gap with one
seam instead of adding three possibilities - but as I think about this,
with slightly oversize inlay and sharp tools it might be easier than I
imagine.

And Richard also more eloquently explained what i was thinking about re:
tapering the maple. By getting the tear out handled as lumber pre-glue up I
can have a smooth top surface and regardless of how much or little I planed
the wood I can taper the entirety of the maple from 1/2" at the visible
edge to the remaining thickness on the bottom. If I'm slightly under 3/4"
it wont be a problem.

And thanks Richard for shoving me finally down the french polish method ;-)
I use lots of shellac on walnut but build it. I have been pining for
attempting a french polish.

thanks all
Scott in Duluth