OldTools Archive
Recent | Bios | FAQ |
263254 | Christopher Dunn <christopherdunn123@g...> | 2017‑09‑07 | straightening a saw |
Galoots I have an old Disston rip saw and was using it to cut some wood to make shutters. It started decently sharp, but after a dozen or so boards, it wasn't cutting so well. I only had a few more boards to go and decided to power through them and sharpen the saw later. Then I hit some wavy grain, a tooth caught, and the saw blade buckled. It doesn't have a kink, but it's now got a permanent bend to it. If I put a straight edge on the blade from the heel to the toe, the middle deviates about 1/4" to 3/8". Before beating on the blade willy nilly with a hammer, does anyone have any suggestions for removing the bend? Thank you, Chris |
|||
263255 | Mark Pfeifer <markpfeifer@i...> | 2017‑09‑07 | Re: straightening a saw |
If hand bending won't work, i use a peen hammer on an anvil, striking inside the bend (ie the concave) one tap at a time. It's counterintuitive. You'd think you bang on the convex side to shove it back into shape, as you would with a dent in a fender. But that doesn't work on spring steel. The peening spreads steel, and that spreading "pushes" out the concavity. Sent from my iPhone |
|||
263256 | Nathan Garver-Daniels <nate.garverdaniels@g...> | 2017‑09‑07 | Re: straightening a saw |
Chris, The best explanation I've seen of how this works is from Bob Smalser, in an article posted to wkfinetools.com http://trestore.wkfinetools.com/saw/strSawBlade/strSawBlade1.asp On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 11:48 AM, Christopher Dunn < christopherdunn123@g...> wrote: |
|||
263274 | "Adam R. Maxwell" <amaxwell@m...> | 2017‑09‑09 | Re: straightening a saw |
> On Sep 7, 2017, at 11:39 , Nathan Garver-Daniels |
|||
263275 | Claudio DeLorenzi <claudio@d...> | 2017‑09‑09 | Re: straightening a saw |
If you happen to have a 6 inch or 12 inch strip of spring steel (the blue "shim stock" commonly sold) , try hammering the oiled surface on an oiled anvil (ie a hard faced, ringing anvil, not the dull thuds from the dollar store ones) you can watch this process work. A straight strip of spring steel will turn into a C shape, convex up, as you gently hammer it. It does work- try it. The hammer seems to stretch the surface of the far side (ie the down side) of the spring steel, so it will curve upwards. Now you have to think in three dimensions though to work out how to undo what was done to the saw in the first place. Cheers Claudio |
|||
263276 | Nichael Cramer <nichael@s...> | 2017‑09‑09 | Re: straightening a saw |
I remember on the WWS where Roy describe "an old technique" for straightening a kinked blade in which you go out to a lake and repeatedly smack the saw broadside-down on the water until it un-kinked. N [Although I must admit that I always suspected that --just maybe-- this was the task assigned to the new apprentice the first time s/he kinked a blade. Then when they got back to the shop, and had a chance to dry out a bit, they could be sent to the hardware store for a can of tartan paint, or a dozen AC batteries.] |
|||
263277 | Matthew Groves <grovesthegrey@g...> | 2017‑09‑09 | Re: straightening a saw |
You say convex up, but talk about the far side being stretched. Is your anvil on the ceiling? Or did you mean concave up instead? Matthew Groves Springfield, MO |
|||
263280 | Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> | 2017‑09‑10 | Re: straightening a saw |
I picked up this hammer at a garbage sale a few years ago. At first I thought it was a filemaker’s hammer, but then read that the domed face made it a saw tensioner’s hammer. Anybody have any ideas? The other hammer is a 16 oz clawhammer, and I think the big drop hammer weights about 2-1/2 pounds. https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/36296276504/in/dateposted-public/ Ed Minch |
|||
263281 | Claudio DeLorenzi <claudio@d...> | 2017‑09‑10 | Re: straightening a saw |
Hi Matthew: Oops- I mis spoke- I meant to say the strip will be concave up as you hammer on it! Duh. I've been up since 4 am working on my talks because I leave for Beijing at the crack'o'dawn and I'm no where near ready. These emails are a nice break from everything. Let me try it again! A flat strip of spring steel has two surfaces, the one laying on the anvil, and the one facing outwards that you are going to hammer upon. As you hammer on the flat shim stock, the ends of the shim stock will curl upwards, away from the anvil surface. You can think of it as the shim stock surface that is against the anvil is stretching out, as Bob Smalser points out in his excellent articles. The upper surface of the shim stock that you are hammering (gently) upon seems to contract or shrink, but I suspect it is mainly the underside that is expanding more as the force vectors radiate outwards from the gently curved face of the hammer (I'm not using the ball face of a mechanic's hammer- I'm using the crowned face of a good older blacksmith type hammer- sharp edged flat faced hammers are death to saws- you'll never get those marks off). Constantly wipe everything with an oily rag, and you have to use your best hammer etiquette (no miss hits). I have no floating anvils. You have to go to Happy Camp in California for that sort of stuff. Scott G has several floaters in his shop, I hear. That ain't wood smoke you see coming out of his windows. Now you know why it's called 'Happy Camp'. Cheers On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 10:05 AM, Matthew Groves |
|||
263291 | "Adam R. Maxwell" <amaxwell@m...> | 2017‑09‑10 | Re: straightening a saw |
> On Sep 9, 2017, at 17:35 , Ed Minch |
|||
Recent | Bios | FAQ |