On 2020-02-20 8:36 a.m., Cal Meier wrote:
> I generally lurk somewhere under the porch normally asking or commenting one
on one to a true porch members.
> Today I need some advice.  In central Louisiana southern yellow pine, solid
wood doors, are much more common and much cheaper that Douglas Fir or Hemlock my
parent’s and grandparents had access to.  I am going to be applying a “finish”
to from four to six doors (four panel solid pine).  I was planning on using one
pound cut clear shellac as a sealer and them apply a jell stain to at least
achieve a light or moderate redish brown.  I planned to apply Shellac to fight
the blotchiness I sometimes see in stained pine.  Then I started thinking
(always dangerous), after seeing some doors others had simply applied clear
polyurethane on.  What kind of color or stain might I expect to see if I applied
2 pound cut (Bullseye) amber shellac??  Locally, getting the garnet or other
darker shellac is not that easy.
>
> Thanks much for any advice or just smiles at this question.
>
> I like to build but generally am scared when it comes to finishing.  I do read
Teri Masaschi books (especially revised edition) “Foolproof wood finishing for
those who love to build and hate to finish—revised edition.”  I guess I am not
too hesitant in asking for advice considering the changes in what is available
in the way of stains.  Teri has had to revise her book in part because a couple
of key venders she sent readers to went out of business.  In my area stains
other than Minwax generally have to be ordered in which can make for some
somewhat expensive gambling when shipping is added in.
>
> Cal Meier
> Pineville, LA
> 71360
> Raining steadily.

Hi Cal

I've used a variety of shellac flakes from super-blonde to 'button' in 
DNA / Mohawk solvent & most recently, Everclear. I prefer the Everclear 
because the fumes aren't toxic, and if there's some left over, I can 
find another use. ;-) There is a good selection of flake product 
available on-line from Tools for Working Wood, Highland Woodworking and 
Lee Valley. I currently favour Lee Valley because their prices are good, 
and they have an excellent return policy, but I've also purchased from 
TFWW, where the prices seem higher.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/
76311-shellacs">https://www.leevalley.com/en-
ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/76311-shellacs

You can get a fair bit of colour in your sealing coat if you use one of 
the darker shellacs. Even the super-blonde has some colour to it. 
Highland offers 'platina' which they say is lighter than the 
super-blonde and more water-resistant, FWIW.

To me the great thing about mixing up your own shellac is that when 
you've got the tint you want  (amber, garnet etc ), you can do some 
testing on samples to determine the 'cut' to use.

You can also tint the the shellac with alcohol-soluble stains.

https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/LW-MCW.XX?searchterm=dye

I have always used the Lockwood stain, never the Moser's products 
available at WoodWorkers Supply. These dyes are very powerful, so start 
with a highly dilute mix. A few grains of the powder, 1/8 teaspoon or 
less at a time. I use a tiny spoon which came in a bottle of Stevia 
sweetener.

Testing is quick and easy because the solvent evaporates quickly. Once 
you've settled on the 'cut' and any toning dye you can still apply a gel 
stain if you wish, but you will have more toning options, and should be 
able to produce a finish with more clarity than if you relied completely 
on the gel for your colour.

FWIW

Don


-- 
“If you feel the need to give something back perhaps it means you took too much
in the first place." - Stefan Stern