Saw this interesting plane.  For smaller boats, the back of the hull planking
(skin) might need to be hollowed out a touch to match where the frames (ribs)
curve the most.  A shipwright would make his own plane to do this.  Here is one
with a blade made from a wide chisel

https://www.classicboat.co.uk/articles/boatbuilders-notes-backing-out-plane/

Ed Minch

I made my own from a mostly used up coffin smoother. The mouth was already
pretty open, and of course removing more of the sole opened it even more. Still,
it worked pretty well. I haven't used it in a while, and IIRC I've used it more
for shaping oar blades than hollowing plank backs.

I wonder where that thing is?
-T
________________________________
From: OldTools  on behalf of Ed Minch 
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 7:49 AM
To: OldTools List 
Subject: [OldTools] 2 things

Saw this interesting plane.  For smaller boats, the back of the hull planking
(skin) might need to be hollowed out a touch to match where the frames (ribs)
curve the most.  A shipwright would make his own plane to do this.  Here is one
with a blade made from a wide chisel

https://www.classicboat.co.uk/articles/boatbuilders-notes-backing-out-plane/

Ed Minch
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tom

The URL is UK, so unless you want to get on a plane right now, it might be out
of reach.  I have only made 9 Windsor style chairs and I did not want to invest
in a gutter adze.  I bought a small coffin smoother in cherry with a single (not
double) iron, made a compound radius on the sole and reground the blade to match
the sole.  The fore-and-aft arc is quite severe and the mouth is 1/2 mile wide,
but I can rough out a chair seat in less than 15 minutes.  It takes chips like
the big Fritos

Ed Minch

When I was carving the banister for my stairs years ago (4X4 off the 
ground out back of the hardware store)
I needed a deep cove of course.
   I had a junk wooden jack plane I wasn't using. So just cut the sole 
round and ground the blade to match.
  This made a ridiculous gaping maw of a mouth though. Too big to even 
contemplate.
So I patched it in.
I can't remember what I used. Some hard tropical probably.

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/homeplanes/gutterplane.jpg

I still have it, but haven't used it much since.

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/house/stair1.jpg

yours scott

-- 
*******************************
    Scott Grandstaff
    Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca  96039
    scottg@s...
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html

> On Jun 1, 2020, at 1:36 PM, pgaud0@y... wrote:
> 
> Ed,
> 
> Any chance of getting a profile of the sole and blade on that?  I'm interested
in making a Windsor chair, but also do not plan on picking up a gutter adze at
this time.
> 


Here are 5 shots - scroll right and left

I haven’t used it in a couple of years so I forgot that it is a double iron.
The iron is 1-5/8” wide which is why I chose it for this job.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/49960522438/in/dateposted-
public/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/49960522438/in/dateposted-
public/ <https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/49960522438/in
/dateposted-public/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/49960522438/in
/dateposted-public/>

Ed

I once had a Stanley 608, where the prior owner had fitted a curved "shoe" to
the sole, and ground the blade to match the curve.  I had been told it was a
pattern maker's modification, but see no reason a boat builder couldn't do this.
The amount of backing out will vary by where on the boat you are.  Near the
sheer, up by the gunnels, the amount would be less than near the chine.  Of
course this depends on the hull form, with "tender" hulls needing a more uniform
backing than those with relatively hard chines.
I'd take a #4 Smoother, make up a variety of shoes with matching blades.  The
shoe is little more than a hardwood plank same length as the plane, with the
outside rounded athwarts, attached with counter-sunk screws.
The plank should bear against the ribs along the full width, at all stations
along the length.
If you make a template of each profile you can check those against the ribs at
each station to choose the correct shoe and blade.
Michael Filler


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